The Bay of Kotor

Our long bus ride(s) to Kotor, Montenegro consisted of two parts. Part 1 was about eight hours long. We whined, we complained, and we tried to sleep, all the way from Sofia, Bulgaria through Serbia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina. We had to stop at multiple border crossings because we hadn't yet entered the Schengen area. Border stops are always a thrill, especially in the middle of the night. We also had a few interesting experiences when we learned the bathrooms at rest stops cost 25 cents... in a currency we didn't have. (This is where I say thank you to the really nice Serbian college student I meant who gave me a handful of change so I could use the restroom in the middle of nowhere. Thank you, friendly stranger!!)

Part 2 was much shorter, but incredibly beautiful. When we woke up from our half-sleep, the sun was out and our bus was approaching the Bay of Kotor. Out of our slightly foggy windows, we could see lush mountains, and then bits of clear, turquoise water. Our bus began winding around the Bay of Kotor, giving us  views of the little towns that filled each bit of flat land between the mountains and the sea.

Then, when we got off the bus, we were greeted by some new friends:

Kittens do a pretty good job of erasing any last bits of sleepiness and moodiness.

Even without the kittens greeting us at the bus station, we would've found it pretty difficult to be even a bit grumpy in the lovely old town of Kotor. The walled city is filled haphazardly with tiny alleyways that open into large, pleasant plazas lined with cafes and restaurants. The walled city is best by early morning or evening, when the crowds and tours disappear and your imagination can more easily transport you to another era.

They had ice cream cones in medieval times, right?

We got a different perspective of the old town by climbing up a mountain directly behind the town. We climbed up the old, slightly crumbling walls and made it to the top of the hill to the old fortress. The views from atop the mountain were incredible; we could see the old town, plus the bay and the peaks that surround it. If you plan to make the climb, make sure to wear flats. We saw a number of women in heels attempting to make the climb. Stilettos and crumbling stairs don't mix.

Old town from above

Walking along the old wall

A piece of the fortress 

Just relaxing on some ruins

Yeah, that's another terrifying bridge

You can see the walls, plus the older and new parts of Kotor

That's where we climbed. You can kind of see the walls in the hills. Forgive my expression; Tom made me point

One day, we decided to walk along the bay to a nearby town. It was a little farther than we expected--about 7 miles. When we got too hot, we dove into the cool water. (Okay, Tom  dove in. I dipped in a toe and an ankle because, well, I'm a wimp about cold water.)

Cool building we saw on our walk

Pretending to jump into the water

Boat, and fishing nets in the Bay of Kotor

Jumping for real

If you're visiting neighboring Croatia, definitely take a day trip to the Bay of Kotor. The views and the atmosphere are well worth it.

-R

Wandering the Cascades

Although we were in Argentina for quite a long time, we didn't make it up to the famous Iguazu Falls.  We were scolded for this oversight by fellow travelers, but our reasoning was simple: we didn't want to get on another bus for 20 hours just to spend one day in a park and drive right back! (After several 24+ hour bus rides, we definitely needed a break.)

While traveling in Croatia, several people we met told us that we had to go visit the Plitvice Lakes National Park in central Croatia, which was just a few hours from the city of Split. We decided that this was the perfect way to get our waterfall fix without the long bus rides. 

We've convinced ourselves that it was just as beautiful as Iguazu Falls is. (Yes, this is likely us rationalizing.) Plivitce Lakes National Park has hundreds, if not thousands, of waterfalls of all different shapes and sizes that trickle and splash their way into big turquoise lakes. We were there on a slightly rainy day in mid-May and we had the best kind of day: small crowds and high water from the rain.

I'm pretty sure that one day when I think back on this trip, I'll first think of the rickety bridges

A lingering bit of autumn

The lake was so high that the water sloshed through the cracks of the steps

Mouth of a limestone cave

Turquoise waters

Ferry boat that escorted us from one area of the park to another

If you're planning a trip to Croatia, definitely add Plivitice Lakes to your itinerary. The waterwalls were breathtaking, and the nature that surrounds the lakes is much different from what you'll see on the beaches of Dubrovnik or Split. Many people visit Plivitice as a day trip, but we stayed at a wonderful guesthouse in town and enjoyed the slower pace.

-R

R & R in Melnik, Bulgaria

Here's a little secret: as awesome as it is to travel long-term, it can be pretty tiring at times. The steady stream of buses and museums and meeting new people and trying out new languages-- it adds up! We decided that we needed a little vacation from our travels, so after touring through Plovdiv and Sofia, we headed to the tiny little town of Melnik, Bulgaria.

Melnik on a map

The town is incredibly small, with just a few hundred residents. We were were lured there by promises of wine, mountains, and peace and quiet. Melnik delivered.

Once our bus dropped us off in front of the only street in town, we wandered for a few minutes, trying to determine the best place to stay. Tom saw a big hotel up on a hill and suggested we check it out.

He made it to the top a minute before I did. By the time I walked into the lobby, Tom had transformed into a kid begging for a puppy. But instead, he was begging for a hotel room. "They have a steam room! And a jacuzzi!"

Sold.

Our hotel at the top of the hill

Strolling around town

We spent the next few days steaming, hiking in the lovely mountains, and eating great food at the restaurants that lined town.

Streets of little Melnik

Tiny bridges connected the two sides of "town"

Cool landscape just a short hike from town

Forests

One day, we went for a tour of an old wine cellar and paid about $1 for the tour and wine tasting. And though the wine wasn't anything to write home about (and yet, here we are), the ambiance in the old wine cellar was really neat. And, as hard as we tried, we couldn't get the nice man to stop pouring us (free) wine. After several glasses of wine, we finally had the courage to sneak out while his back was turned.

Old Bulgarian home

Barrels in the wine cellar

Creeping around the wine cellar

This little corner of Bulgaria is exceptionally beautiful. If you decide to visit, rent a car to tour around the rolling vineyards and quaint little towns. We were able to see a lot by bus, but we could've preserved a bit more of the rest and relaxation if we had our own wheels!

-R